In this blog post I wanted to discuss something different; let's look how we can apply lessons from freediving to everyday life! So, here are 5 things freediving can teach us about life: 

#1: Patience is Vital
Freediving is one of the few sports where you can't just push harder to get better, more often than not progress can be slow and a myriad of external factors can mean that the dive doesn't always go as expected. What better way to remind us that we sometimes need to bide our time and be more patient to achieve the outcomes we want.

#2: We need People
Many sports and training sessions have teams, or maybe two people playing in rivalry, but few require two people working together and looking after each other. Yes, it can sometimes be a pain to find a buddy, but it is in a good lesson in receiving outside help and trusting someone else, essentially with your life.
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​But in this blog post I wanted to cover what I consider to other less considered or overlooked aspects of safety. In over 12 years of teaching freediving I have made mistakes (and learned from them!), seen others making mistakes and heard about other peoples mistakes, accidents or close calls. So here are what I consider to be the 5 top overlooked aspects of freediving safety: 

#1: Maintaining Equipment
With time and use your equipment degrades and even more so if it is not looked after properly and cleaned after dive sessions. I have seen (and even had!) fins snap, weight belts break, carabiners fail, masks break.... the list goes on.
In the majority of cases it is not a single failure it is degradation over time, which can be visible and therefore preventable. 
So what can you do? Visually check all equipment as you assemble it for your dive session. And every 6 or 12 months do a more thorough check. This is especially important if you have not used equipment for a period of time and it has been in storage. 
Replace equipment BEFORE it breaks to prevent a problem occurring in the first place. Prevention is always better than having to react to a bigger problem, or even accident, caused by improperly maintained equipment.
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#2: Communication
​Beginner freedivers especially, but all recreational levels (and beyond!) seem to forget that if you have a buddy, you actually need to tell them what you are doing. Often it is a shock for freedivers after their course is completed, when they don't have a paid safety diver (the instructor) anymore, and the person they are now accompanied by is not 100% there to watch and help them the whole session. However, you should both be 100% invested in helping each other as buddies although it is not your paid job, it is of course mutually beneficial. Just some people are better at it than others.
But as much as we would like to be, people are not mind readers, so remember to take time to discuss the key topics of a dive, including but not limited to; depth, discipline (dive type), time etc (WHERE will you go, HOW will you get there, WHO will help you if needed, WHEN will you be back).
​Sounds easy but is often not done properly.
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​#3: Exploring is different to line training
Diving using a buoy / rope / weight / lanyard set-up makes things much much easier to do deeper and more efficient freedives. This is often overlooked and when recreational freedivers dive on the reef to explore they often mistakenly assume they can achieve the same depths or times.
This is incorrect. Having a buoy (to rest on), a rope (to take you in a straight line and turn on), a weight (to allow you to 'pull' up or down if needed) and a lanyard (to keep you safely close to the line) all make a huge difference to how easy and relaxed the dives are, but more importantly how safe. So much so, that  when diving off the line you should reduce your maximum depth by at least ONE THIRD. Therefore, if you are a 20m diver on the line, your recreational off-line diving depths should be limited to 13-14m range for the purpose of safety.

#4: Pay Attention
Paying attention is an important safety aspect, but does sound rather broad and vague, so let me elaborate. This can be applicable to three main areas: 1) Yourself 2) Your buddy 3) Other factors (such as weather and equipment).
As an example, it is not uncommon while teaching for me to see a freediver about to dive with either no lanyard attached (forgotten) or a lanyard on the wrist but the other end is still attached to the buoy and not the rope. So both the freediver has not noticed this AND the buddy has not noticed this. Now this is not uncommon for new freedivers as they learn and have lots to think about, but once diving independently details such as this matter (for both safe and enjoyable dives).
Also, are you noticing if you are getting more tired or colder or heavier contractions etc? Maybe time to stop the session.
Did you notice that the waves are getting bigger or the current getting stronger or visibility deteriorating? Maybe time to stop the session.
You get the idea.
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​#5: Weight is NOT fixed
​What do I mean by this? I am suggesting that the weight you put on your weight belt needs to be thought about and adjusted on a fairly regular basis. As part of the AIDA3 Advanced Freediver Course it is taught to consider what and where is 'Neutral Buoyancy' and what factors will have an effect on this...... Think, wetsuit thickness, water type (salt or fresh), how deep you want to dive, what safety precautions you have, what your buddy is capable of etc.

Think about this statement:
                                     "Deeper neutral buoyancy is the SAFER option."
Let that sink in....
Setting your neutral buoyancy DEEPER means LESS weights on your belt. This means it is harder to get down, but easier to come up (which, remember, is the hard part of the freedive), and that if (in the very unlikely scenario) you should have an underwater blackout, you are more likely to float back to the surface rather than sink deeper.
Deep freedivers taking part in competitions take the absolute minimum weight down with them because then it is less to bring back up on the harder, second part of the freedive.

Here is another statement for you:
                                      "More weight should not replace bad technique."
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Meaning that it is dangerous to simply add more weight to get down underwater easier. If you struggle to reach neutral and then negative buoyancy while correctly weighted you need to work on your duck dive and finning techniques, which is a topic for another blog post!

What do you think, are there any others that could be on this list? Let me know in the comments section.​

By David Watson, Owner, Founder & Head Instructor / AIDA Instructor Trainer at One Breath Freediving ​

1). Learn to Swim / Practice Swimming:
This is the biggest one. How will you be able to be relaxed in the water and focus on learning freediving if you are scared or worried by just being in the water? There is already a lot to learn about technique in freediving without your attention being mainly on trying to stay afloat or stress from having water touching your face. So be realistic about your ability. If you go to the pool for a pool party and stand in the shallow end with a drink in your hand, this doesn't count as training or being a swimmer! You don't have to be an olympic level swimmer to freedive but being able to stay afloat without panic and swim continuously for 5-10 minutes can make a huge difference for a trainee freediver.
(AIDA1 has a swim requirement of 100m, AIDA2 has a swim requirement of 200m, both are non-stop swimming, any stroke, no time limit) 

2). Practice Relaxed Breathing:
Breathing is the foundation of freediving. On the course you will learn the correct breathing for freediving, and how you can control your breath. Remember, we can control how we breath, whether it is fast or slow or deep or shallow. Start by lying down comfortably and breathing relaxed but a little deeper (always through the mouth!), so that when you breathe in, you feel the diaphragm muscle move down into the space where our stomach is (hence why we call this 'belly breathing'). Try this and feel how your heart rate will slow and you can practice relaxing all the muscles of your body at the same time, creating a calm and relaxed state (which is also great for stress relief!)

3). Feel the 'Urge to Breathe':
Doing a dry breath hold following on from the relaxed breathing, explained above, is a safe way to feel what signals our body will give us when it tells us it wants to breathe again. So take a big, full  breath after a couple of minutes of the relaxed breathing and try holding until you feel the diaphragm (breathing muscle) start to contract and moving a little bit or you feel a warm sensation there. This is the urge to breathe and although we can safely hold beyond this urge, we are not used to experiencing this sensation or challenging it ever in our lives, so this will feel new. Before the course you can experience this and try holding 5-15 seconds (count down in your head) after you first feel it and see how you are still perfectly ok afterwards. This type of practice then, is great mental and physical training for the urge to breathe we feel as a freediver!

4). Practice Ear Equalisation:
Ear equalisation is the most challenging part of freediving for beginners as it is something we rarely do ever in our day to day lives! Chances are, even if you are a scuba diver you are doing it inefficiently as they only teach the very basics of it on a scuba course. On the freediving course you will learn about doing ear equalisation correctly and efficiently for freediving, but most people will benefit greatly from practicing and training this in the weeks and months leading up to the course. You will be provided with guidance on this in by your instructor in preparation for the course, but start by looking up Frenzel equalisation technique and Valsalva Maneuver (us freedivers want to do FRENZEL as it is much more efficient).

5). Read the Course Manual:
​Once you are signed up for the freediving course you will receive access to the relevant AIDA freediving course manual. It goes without saying that by reading this before the course starts you will be in a better position to understand the concepts once they are explained to you by the instructor during the course. Also, you can test your knowledge of the manual by answering the test questions at the end of each chapter. Most beginners are surprised how much theory there is to know in freediving. There is a 100+ page manual for EACH level (AIDA2, AIDA3, AIDA4), introducing new concepts to help you dive deeper, although the foundation knowledge comes on the first level course (AIDA2).

IMPORTANT:
It goes without saying that these 5 tips alone do not make you a safe and competent freediver and definitely do not replace taking the freediving course! But with these 5 steps you can ensure you are prepared and ready to experience your adventure with One Breath Freediving!
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We all know the main equipment we need for a successful freediving session or to go exploring in the sea.  It's a pretty standard kit list: mask, snorkel, wetsuit, weights & belt, fins.
Maybe if you are an extreme 'minimalist freediver' you might go in the water with only a swimming costume and mask / goggles (see an extremely  impressive take on this in the video below!)

But in this blog post I wanted to share with you all 5 pieces of equipment I keep in my dive bag or in the car that could potentially save your freediving session:

1. (Johnson's Baby) Shampoo -A cheap and little known way to keep your mask from fogging up. Apply inside the lens before getting in the water, and rinse out before putting on, to guarantee a clear view all session! This has saved the day for me or my students more than once after masks that should have been good after multiple treatments with the flame of a lighter, still fogged up.
2. Fin Retainers - Cheap and small these can mean that if you forget your neoprene  socks you can still use your fins and dive. If someone else with smaller feet needs to borrow your fins they can still be used. I use them all the time as it gives a more secure fin fit and transfers more of the power each kick to the blade (See: https://massdiving.com/products/full_foot_fin_retainers)
3. Emergency Whistle - Small and discrete I have these attached to all the buoys I use for teaching. Perfect to attract attention or give a warning in an emergency situation (See: https://www.ndiver-rescue.com/peeless-whistle)
4. Mask strap - Can save the dive session if you mask strap breaks, and it will take up almost no room in you mask box! A must have.
5. Lanyard - Even if not diving deep or diving off the line  I keep this in my dive bag. If used as a backup lanyard on a line training session it gives an option to secure bi-fins or monofin as they can be threaded through and kept secure when not in use (diving no fins for example). It also provides a spare carabiner that is always useful to have.

Have I missed anything? Let me know in the comments section if you have any more to add.

When the Paralenz dive camera was released it was a game changer for underwater videography as it had some extremely innovative and unique features and did not require an external housing. Those of you that follow the One Breath Freediving social media channels will know I'm a big advocate of this camera (both for teaching purposes and fun use), and I take it with me in the water as much as possible.

Now it has been on the market a few years and has evolved with newer versions being released, it is possible to buy the older versions cheaper or even secondhand, making this type of camera even more accessible to freedivers.

Here are my 5 top tips for using a Paralenz:

1. Depth overlay feature: The overlay adds the current depth and water temperature to your videos (see still shots above) and updates constantly during the dive. This creates a visual record of where you are in the dive and makes your videos much more interesting to people watching them.
2. Mask mount attachment: The mask mount attachment is a great item included with the camera package, and especially useful for instructors (or buddies) doing line depth training. Though not as ideal for higher quality video shots as the selfie stick, the mask mount allows continuous hands free use of the camera and is great for filming a student or a buddy so you can review the technique of the dive later on after the session (see top left still shot).
3. Auto start / stop feature: As the Paralenz camera has a depth sensor, as we already discussed in #1, we can also set this feature to stop and start the camera filming. For example, if you set the camera to start and stop filming at 0.5m using the mask mount then it creates a truly hands free camera that you can simply turn on and forget about during your dive session.
4. Paralenz App: Downloading the Paralenz app to your phone means you can review the footage straight after the dive while you are sipping your coffee :) Footage can be transferred easily and quickly via blu-tooth connection.
5. Battery life: One of the stand out features of Paralenz is the battery life which can be 2-3 hours long on average! So make sure you don't cut corners by buying a cheap or small capacity memory card. With this type of battery life you can film as much as you like in the session without fear of 'missing' those passing dolphins that will no doubt appear at the end of the dive day when those other, inferior, cameras will be long finished.

By David Watson, AIDA Instructor Trainer and Owner & Founder at One Breath Freediving

Hello freedivers :)
Following on from the guide to freediving wetsuits that I posted previously, I thought I would do a post regarding freediving masks and provide a few tips and tricks to help you choose wisely and get more comfortable and relaxed with a proper freediving mask. 

Here are 5 pieces of advice regarding freediving masks:

1. Can I just use my scuba diving / snorkelling mask?: Not really. Scuba diving masks are generally bigger (internal volume), which means you have to waste more precious air on your dive equalising it. It might be good on your first freediving course but once you go past 15-20m you will notice the difference a low volume freediving mask makes during the free dive.
2. How do I check if it fits me well?: Make sure you try a few on in a shop. I wouldn't recommend buying a mask you are not familiar with, online. You need to try a few on for comparison purposes. Hold it to your face, without the strap, and breathe in through your nose so the mask sucks to your face. It should hold there even after you stop inhaling. If it doesn't hold or feels uncomfortable then it's not the mask for you.
3. Why are nearly all masks black?: Good question! But actually now you can get all sorts of colours such as white, pink or red. But yes, it used to be a choice between black silicone or clear silicone (the soft bit that's in contact with your face). Clear looks better in photographs but can refract the light more and does not age as well as it can discolour.
4. Glass or plastic lenses?: Plastic lens masks are cheaper and more flexible under pressure (so can go deeper with less equalisation). They are 30-40% cheaper too, but on the down side they scratch more easily and give a different view underwater compared to glass lenses (no magnification and some distortion to the periphery vision). Normally the come on a wider fitting mask frame that curves around the face, so if you have a wider face they could be a good fit for you.
5. How do I stop the lenses fogging up?: This is a common problem even with a high quality mask. A new mask has a coating on the lens from its production. You can buy a mask defogger spay or these following remedies work just as well if not better: Tooothpaste, rub inside the lenses and leave overnight. Baby shampoo, apply inside before diving or the night before. For both of these, wash out before putting the mask on for the dive. Use a lighter to burn away the layer inside the lenses. This is the best method but if you are not sure how to do it, ask your instructor to show you. For my current mask I needed to do the lighter trick 4 times in total but since then I get zero fogging up.

Bonus Tip: Most people I teach on the first courses pull their mask strap so tight that it leaves a mark around the face that can be seen for the rest of the day! Not only that, wearing the mask tight distorts the silicone skirt and can actually INCREASE the chance of the mask leaking and water entering. Remember, at depth we are under pressure, the mask is pushed onto the face by this pressure so it does not need our help creating extra pressure before we even start a dive.

By David Watson, AIDA Instructor Trainer and Owner & Founder at One Breath Freediving

Hello freedivers :)
I recently had a few questions regarding wetsuits for freediving so I thought I would do a blog post to share a couple of my opinions and thoughts and also to direct you to a very useful guide to choosing your first freediving wetsuit.

Here are 5 useful tips about freediving wetsuits that you might not know or have considered:

1. A specific freediving wetsuit will be WAY better than what you used before: If you are just used to a zipped and lined scuba or surfing wetsuit a proper fitting, two-piece freediving wetsuit with integrated hood and open cell neoprene will be a revelation and you will wonder how you ever managed without.
2. Consider custom made: It always sounds very extravagant and expensive, but if you do not fit into the normal size spectrum of S, M ,L, XL etc, it's really worth getting a customised fitting wetsuit, and it's not much more expensive (though usually with a bit of a wait time while it is made to your specifications). Better to get it right first time.
3. Don't get too hung up on the types of neoprene: It can be confusing hearing about all the possible options available, but go back to point one.... Even the 'basic' neoprene will beat what you used before. Also, more expensive doesn't mean better for what YOU want and need. For example, the most expensive neoprene will be super stretchy but as a consequence also super fragile. I've see people tear and ruin a wetsuit like this, putting it on the first time. 
4. Think about where you will use it: Will you be diving in the tropics or in the arctic circle? You will not get one thickness wetsuit for all occasions so don't bother trying. Again, back to point one. A freediving wetsuit will be way better (and warmer) than what you have used before. As a general guide for me: 15-22c = 5mm thickness, 23-28c = 3mm thickness.  Also it's easier to cool down in the water than warm up.
5. Maybe it doesn't have to be black: Again, sometimes the choices can be endless. Choose thickness and neoprene type/lining first then ask about colour! Silver, red, blue, green and even orange (yes I've seen it), might all be a possibility. Or even stitching or logos in different colours might be an available option. Obviously not the most important thing, but can make you stand out from the crowd a little :)

By David Watson, AIDA & PADI Master Freediver Instructor and Owner & Founder at One Breath Freediving, based in Malta

The snorkel has to be one of the most maligned or taken for granted piece of equipment in the kit bag of a freediver. It is great for buddying or extended periods of waiting, watching or relaxing on the surface, and although some freediving agencies and some individual instructors seem to teach freediving with little or no snorkel use, for me it is one of the pieces of equipment that can make the biggest difference to the experience of our wonderful sport, especially to beginners and relatively inexperienced freedivers. But, its correct use is not often taught it is just assumed that it is known!

​5 Tips for good snorkel use and control:

• Hold it loosely in your jaw, not clenched (there is no bonus for biting through it!) And let the tip of your tongue sit at the entrance to the snorkel mouth piece (between your teeth), to sense any water that enters before you inadvertently breathe it in
• Angle it correctly so it points up (not forward) when you are relaxing and lying face down on the surface before your dive. Turn more with your whole body if you need to look a long way to the sides. This avoids dipping the top of the snorkel in the water
• Always inhale a little more cautiously than normal and remember to keep the breathing slow and calm, using the diaphragm, with longer exhales
• Take it out the mouth during the dive! It is no use underwater and can in fact be dangerous to leave it in your mouth as it is a passageway for water into the lungs if you black out
• Use it! I often see people during the session, such as when putting on fins, and they struggle for breath and to complete a task when they could be using the snorkel to breathe AND be face down in the water doing what they need to do

Freediving in the Maltese Islands has lots of wonderful features that make it spectacular; the stunning underwater visibility of up to 40m, the cliffs and caves that are prevalent across the islands, the deep blue colour of the water that is unique to the Mediterranean Sea. But one thing that really draws freedivers to Malta is the chance to dive on ship wrecks. Malta has a LOT of wrecks, some sunk by nature (storms), by humans (wars), or on purpose to create artificial reefs. The P-31 wreck falls into the latter category.

Since being purchased by the Maltese Tourism Authority and sank as an artificial reef attraction for divers, the P-31 now sits upright on the sandy seabed West of Comino( just South of Blue Lagoon and just West of Crystal Lagoon), approximately 200m from shore. The depth on the bottom here is 20m and the top of the wreck is at just 10m deep. In fact the P-31 sits so shallow that it was necessary to cut off the mast of the ship before sinking her so as not to obstruct boat traffic. The wreck can often be seen clearly from the surface when you arrive by boat and I have even seen it occasionally from out of the airplane window when arriving or leaving Malta on certain days! In the summer months you will see a yellow ‘X’ marker buoy above to indicate the wrecks position.
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Since her sinking, the P-31 has had to weather some rough storms as the prevailing winds on the islands are from a NW direction and sitting this shallow in the water means that waves and swell have had an impact, but considering that she has been underwater for 10 years already the wreck is still in very good condition. Before sinking she was thoroughly cleaned and made safe for divers. This means doors and hatches were removed and obstructions such fixtures, wires and cables were cleared out. There are a number of levels to explore and for a freediver it is normally clear and obvious which direction it is possible and safe to go in.