We all know the main equipment we need for a successful freediving session or to go exploring in the sea.  It's a pretty standard kit list: mask, snorkel, wetsuit, weights & belt, fins.
Maybe if you are an extreme 'minimalist freediver' you might go in the water with only a swimming costume and mask / goggles (see an extremely  impressive take on this in the video below!)

But in this blog post I wanted to share with you all 5 pieces of equipment I keep in my dive bag or in the car that could potentially save your freediving session:

1. (Johnson's Baby) Shampoo -A cheap and little known way to keep your mask from fogging up. Apply inside the lens before getting in the water, and rinse out before putting on, to guarantee a clear view all session! This has saved the day for me or my students more than once after masks that should have been good after multiple treatments with the flame of a lighter, still fogged up.
2. Fin Retainers - Cheap and small these can mean that if you forget your neoprene  socks you can still use your fins and dive. If someone else with smaller feet needs to borrow your fins they can still be used. I use them all the time as it gives a more secure fin fit and transfers more of the power each kick to the blade (See: https://massdiving.com/products/full_foot_fin_retainers)
3. Emergency Whistle - Small and discrete I have these attached to all the buoys I use for teaching. Perfect to attract attention or give a warning in an emergency situation (See: https://www.ndiver-rescue.com/peeless-whistle)
4. Mask strap - Can save the dive session if you mask strap breaks, and it will take up almost no room in you mask box! A must have.
5. Lanyard - Even if not diving deep or diving off the line  I keep this in my dive bag. If used as a backup lanyard on a line training session it gives an option to secure bi-fins or monofin as they can be threaded through and kept secure when not in use (diving no fins for example). It also provides a spare carabiner that is always useful to have.

Have I missed anything? Let me know in the comments section if you have any more to add.

By David Watson, AIDA Instructor Trainer and Owner & Founder at One Breath Freediving

Hello freedivers :)
Following on from the guide to freediving wetsuits that I posted previously, I thought I would do a post regarding freediving masks and provide a few tips and tricks to help you choose wisely and get more comfortable and relaxed with a proper freediving mask. 

Here are 5 pieces of advice regarding freediving masks:

1. Can I just use my scuba diving / snorkelling mask?: Not really. Scuba diving masks are generally bigger (internal volume), which means you have to waste more precious air on your dive equalising it. It might be good on your first freediving course but once you go past 15-20m you will notice the difference a low volume freediving mask makes during the free dive.
2. How do I check if it fits me well?: Make sure you try a few on in a shop. I wouldn't recommend buying a mask you are not familiar with, online. You need to try a few on for comparison purposes. Hold it to your face, without the strap, and breathe in through your nose so the mask sucks to your face. It should hold there even after you stop inhaling. If it doesn't hold or feels uncomfortable then it's not the mask for you.
3. Why are nearly all masks black?: Good question! But actually now you can get all sorts of colours such as white, pink or red. But yes, it used to be a choice between black silicone or clear silicone (the soft bit that's in contact with your face). Clear looks better in photographs but can refract the light more and does not age as well as it can discolour.
4. Glass or plastic lenses?: Plastic lens masks are cheaper and more flexible under pressure (so can go deeper with less equalisation). They are 30-40% cheaper too, but on the down side they scratch more easily and give a different view underwater compared to glass lenses (no magnification and some distortion to the periphery vision). Normally the come on a wider fitting mask frame that curves around the face, so if you have a wider face they could be a good fit for you.
5. How do I stop the lenses fogging up?: This is a common problem even with a high quality mask. A new mask has a coating on the lens from its production. You can buy a mask defogger spay or these following remedies work just as well if not better: Tooothpaste, rub inside the lenses and leave overnight. Baby shampoo, apply inside before diving or the night before. For both of these, wash out before putting the mask on for the dive. Use a lighter to burn away the layer inside the lenses. This is the best method but if you are not sure how to do it, ask your instructor to show you. For my current mask I needed to do the lighter trick 4 times in total but since then I get zero fogging up.

Bonus Tip: Most people I teach on the first courses pull their mask strap so tight that it leaves a mark around the face that can be seen for the rest of the day! Not only that, wearing the mask tight distorts the silicone skirt and can actually INCREASE the chance of the mask leaking and water entering. Remember, at depth we are under pressure, the mask is pushed onto the face by this pressure so it does not need our help creating extra pressure before we even start a dive.

By David Watson, AIDA Instructor Trainer and Owner & Founder at One Breath Freediving

Hello freedivers :)
I recently had a few questions regarding wetsuits for freediving so I thought I would do a blog post to share a couple of my opinions and thoughts and also to direct you to a very useful guide to choosing your first freediving wetsuit.

Here are 5 useful tips about freediving wetsuits that you might not know or have considered:

1. A specific freediving wetsuit will be WAY better than what you used before: If you are just used to a zipped and lined scuba or surfing wetsuit a proper fitting, two-piece freediving wetsuit with integrated hood and open cell neoprene will be a revelation and you will wonder how you ever managed without.
2. Consider custom made: It always sounds very extravagant and expensive, but if you do not fit into the normal size spectrum of S, M ,L, XL etc, it's really worth getting a customised fitting wetsuit, and it's not much more expensive (though usually with a bit of a wait time while it is made to your specifications). Better to get it right first time.
3. Don't get too hung up on the types of neoprene: It can be confusing hearing about all the possible options available, but go back to point one.... Even the 'basic' neoprene will beat what you used before. Also, more expensive doesn't mean better for what YOU want and need. For example, the most expensive neoprene will be super stretchy but as a consequence also super fragile. I've see people tear and ruin a wetsuit like this, putting it on the first time. 
4. Think about where you will use it: Will you be diving in the tropics or in the arctic circle? You will not get one thickness wetsuit for all occasions so don't bother trying. Again, back to point one. A freediving wetsuit will be way better (and warmer) than what you have used before. As a general guide for me: 15-22c = 5mm thickness, 23-28c = 3mm thickness.  Also it's easier to cool down in the water than warm up.
5. Maybe it doesn't have to be black: Again, sometimes the choices can be endless. Choose thickness and neoprene type/lining first then ask about colour! Silver, red, blue, green and even orange (yes I've seen it), might all be a possibility. Or even stitching or logos in different colours might be an available option. Obviously not the most important thing, but can make you stand out from the crowd a little :)

By David Watson, AIDA & PADI Master Freediver Instructor and Owner & Founder at One Breath Freediving, based in Malta

The snorkel has to be one of the most maligned or taken for granted piece of equipment in the kit bag of a freediver. It is great for buddying or extended periods of waiting, watching or relaxing on the surface, and although some freediving agencies and some individual instructors seem to teach freediving with little or no snorkel use, for me it is one of the pieces of equipment that can make the biggest difference to the experience of our wonderful sport, especially to beginners and relatively inexperienced freedivers. But, its correct use is not often taught it is just assumed that it is known!

​5 Tips for good snorkel use and control:

• Hold it loosely in your jaw, not clenched (there is no bonus for biting through it!) And let the tip of your tongue sit at the entrance to the snorkel mouth piece (between your teeth), to sense any water that enters before you inadvertently breathe it in
• Angle it correctly so it points up (not forward) when you are relaxing and lying face down on the surface before your dive. Turn more with your whole body if you need to look a long way to the sides. This avoids dipping the top of the snorkel in the water
• Always inhale a little more cautiously than normal and remember to keep the breathing slow and calm, using the diaphragm, with longer exhales
• Take it out the mouth during the dive! It is no use underwater and can in fact be dangerous to leave it in your mouth as it is a passageway for water into the lungs if you black out
• Use it! I often see people during the session, such as when putting on fins, and they struggle for breath and to complete a task when they could be using the snorkel to breathe AND be face down in the water doing what they need to do

By David Watson, AIDA & PADI Master Freediver Instructor and Owner & Founder at One Breath Freediving, based in Malta

Octopus is a company producing innovative freediving equipment, and is owned by Swiss freediver and designer, Pascal Berger. Best known for their high quality products especially the nose clips which have proved to be extremely popular, the Octopus line now includes lanyards, an equalisation tool and the newest product in the range, the pulling system.
​
The pulling system is a smart product designed to allow you to pull up or let out the freediving rope in a controlled, safe and more energy efficient manner. Made from the strongest and lightest and strongest possible materials (including aluminium and carbon fibre), the first thing you notice is the size and the quality of the material. It is significantly smaller than other similar pully systems that are now on the market, and much more compact. The ergonomic triangle shape allows one handed, handling using a ‘trigger’ hand position as you release the line. Pull the trigger and the line flows through and release to let the tension stop the rope dead. 

To pull up you can put one foot on the carbineer (that the tool is clipped on to under the buoy), lean back and pull the rope towards you in a ‘left/right’ alternate pull. The great thing here is that with every release of the tension after each pull, the weight is taken back by the locking mechanism, allowing you to take a break every so often.  This is a huge improvement on the traditional bottom weight lifting method of climbing on top of the buoy and lying face down pulling the rope up, with no chance of a break and the potential of falling off / getting tangled in the line / swallowing sea water / losing your weight belt (as you get on or off), all of which I have seen happen or experienced myself!

Post dive maintenance is minimal and it is advertised as requiring very little care: “It is so resistant that you can just leave it hanging under your buoy. No real need to rinse in fresh water.” Says the marketing, and so far this has proved absolutely true.
 
PROS:

• Great energy saver, especially when pulling up rope from depth
• Small and compact and ergonomic design (one handed use)
• Very easy to adjust the depth of the rope up or down
• Added safety for deeper divers (250kg load capacity)
• Works with ropes 8-12mm

​CONS:

• Can pull off the rope length markers that are electrical tape
• Not so easy to transfer it between ropes
• Can make for a lazy freediver! :D  

​Final Thoughts:
A great addition to a freediving buoy set up. Very easy to use and requiring little or no maintenance, it is easy to have and forget about but adds a lot to the organisation of a freediving. Overall, a great solution for much easier rope handing for freediving training and a very well designed product.
 
The Octopus Pulling System is available now at One Breath Freediving
RRP: €50

Those of you following One Breath Freediving on your social media channels will already know that I have been using the Paralenz dive camera quite extensively already, for both photos and videos, so for this review part 2 (part 1 is un-boxing and initial impressions),I wanted to look at it's use in the water. More than numbers such as pixels and frame rates, I wanted to discuss it's functionality and how well it works specifically from a freediver's point of view. 

Firstly, it's primary mount method that I have employed so far with the Paralenz dive camera has been the mask mount. For me this has been the most convenient as I am normallly using it while teaching or guiding. Once the mask attachment is threaded to the mask strap, you clip the camera on using the 'T-Rail' mount system that gives a reassuring double 'click' when properly secured.

The first thing you notice while wearing it in the water is.....that you don't actually notice the camera! Despite feeling substantial and solid when held in the hand, once attached to the mask I can honestly say that I forget that the camera is actually there. Being so non-intrusive is a huge plus for freedivers as we take in the water minimum equipment and definitely don't like things that create drag or resistance.

Functionality from this position is another massive plus. The feedback loop of vibrations of the camera unit, mean that you do not need to remove the camera (and mask) at all to know what setting you are in! For example, rotate the selector ring clockwise while turned on gives one vibration for video, two vibrations for camera, three for settings etc. And then long or short holds of the activation switch can start or stop recording or offer other functions. This creates a simple user and selector operating system and excellent hands free usability.

Now lets look at the quality of photos that Paralenz is capable of (for videos, check the OBF YouTube channel). All the snaps in this review were taken from the mask mount position, so just a reach to the side of the head and a short pull on the activation switch can give you some great photos. While primarily a video camera, the photos are surprisingly clear, sharp and lacking in distortion at the edges (as can be common for extremely wide angle cameras). In these photos I had Depth Colour Correction (DCC) turned on and Depth & Temperature overlay turned on. The photo above from 5m displays nice blue water and clear white logos on the wetsuit hood. The first photo handles the reflecting light from the shallow water very well and also created a shot that is not blurred or distorted from the divers movement.

Initial in water conclusions:

• Mask mount is very useful for hands free use
  
• Unit vibration feedback is a great idea and super useful with mask mount 
• Photos lack distortion and are very sharp
• DCC is perfect for multiple depth change diving (such as freediving)

Look out for part three of the test where I will review the features of the Paralenz App.

One Breath Freediving is now renting a full freediving set up (buoy/rope/bottom weights) as well as weights and weight belts, to certified freedivers (AIDA3 certified or above).
So if you are visiting Malta and want to do your own training and exploring, we can now accommodate your needs. Contact us for more information, or find the price list, here.